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About this blog: Welcome to the Journey

Tuesday, December 5, 2023

Day 11 (cont.): Palmira

Palmira


The square of Palmira is a spacious, gleaming public space. It has few trees so it is not a place to go for shade but its soft pastel color in the bright blue day made the heat bearable.  We skirted the plaza heading past the bici taxis and the cafes and bars and restaurants and kiosks and line of consumers waiting their turn, down to the first Cabildo, la Sociedad de Cristo Babalu Aye/San Lazaro, a long, freshly painted pink stucco building at the end of the street with red and white wooden posts supporting the equally long front porch.  The director knocks on the white door. I stand a few feet back.  Felipe Capote Sevilla, the president of the sociedad answer.  The museum director warned me that he was not the most sociable of men, taciturn and serious looking but not to let that bother me. 

“He’s that way with everybody,” she said.

Friday, December 1, 2023

Day 11: Palmira. Where Orishas live

Day 11: Palmira. Where Orishas Live.

The car stops in front of the museum, a beautiful 19th Century building with a cozy and verdant central courtyard. The director comes out through one of the doors, big smile on her tall dark frame.  After the perfunctory peck on the cheek, she gives me a tour, explaining the exhibits, while an assistant hovers nearby in case she needed support. 


The museum contains exhibit of the cruel hardware that deformed the bodies and identity of the slaves during the 19th Century.  Manacles, cruel collars with spikes, unforgiving shackles for the ankles.  These are the torture tools which awaited Esteban after his apprehension the first time he escaped.